First experience - Whyte E160 S

[Mr President]

180 miles in now with E160 S. All very good so far. I have ridden it in the local woods and mountains. Dry, wet and muddy. All good.
Thanks to the advice received here I am now in EMTB mode on anything off-road. Typically getting 1500m climbing and around 50km of distance on technical rides. Longer if there is less climbing or obstacles.
Also dropping the seatpost travel by 1cm as per above has helped comfort levels greatly.
Still adapting to logistics to some extent. I saw a question elsewhere about issues clamping the Whyte on a Thule tow bar mounted rack. I agree it is tricky since there are no easily accessible small round tubes. I use a three bike Thule if I am carrying more than one bike and need help just to manhandle the rack onto the tow bar. I have clamped onto the downtube, but it is a poor fit and definitely needs a back-up strap.
When just carrying one bike I have used a Pendle for the last 20 years. It is very easy and felxible until you have to hang the number plate on the bike. The plate damaged the invisi-wrap on the Whyte - could have been worse if I hadn't had the frame wrapped. So I bought a Pro-use Amber 1 on Ebay for 95 quid. This rack is light and easy and I especially like the attachment clamp which is actually tightened via a strap. It works a treat, but you do still need a back-up strap. The rack itself is just too narrow for the Large Whyte, so I have bolted on some extensions made from sawn up guttering downpipe. This seems to be working but I plan to make it look a bit more professional with some black half-round pipe .... one day

 

[Mr President]

One pet hate of the design is the small rubber charging socket cover which sit on top of the bottom bracket. It seems very flimsy and easy to pop off. I have also forgotten to put it back on once or twice when in a rush. Can't help thinking there must be a more robust cover design possible with a threaded cap at least.
The location is OK, but the cover itself doesn't seem very industrial to me.

 

[Mteam]

One pet hate of the design is the small rubber charging socket cover which sit on top of the bottom bracket. It seems very flimsy and easy to pop off. I have also forgotten to put it back on once or twice when in a rush. Can't help thinking there must be a more robust cover design possible with a threaded cap at least.
The location is OK, but the cover itself doesn't seem very industrial to me.

Agree - I'm hoping someone with a 3d printer and appropriate software can design something far better and then sell it for a few quid. I hate the rubber cover thingy.

 

[The Hodge]

More than that rubber thingy ..I find the other rubber thingy which is supposed to cover the dropper post to be completely useless...they must have produced too many for the T130 ( it doesn't work too well on that bike either) and then "gifted" it on to the ebikes ..but hell its a small complaint when the rest of the bike is so good ?

 

[Mikerb]

One pet hate of the design is the small rubber charging socket cover which sit on top of the bottom bracket. It seems very flimsy and easy to pop off. I have also forgotten to put it back on once or twice when in a rush. Can't help thinking there must be a more robust cover design possible with a threaded cap at least.
The location is OK, but the cover itself doesn't seem very industrial to me.

On both my Levo and my wife's Cube Access I have protected the charging ports with neoprene covers secured using hd velcro. The position of the charging port on the Whyte is better and the rubber cap is certainly better than some Bosch Gen 4 hinged flaps but even so I intend making a cover for my E180 RS before winter sets in.

 

[Mikerb]

On both my Levo and my wife's Cube Access I have protected the charging ports with neoprene covers secured using hd velcro. The position of the charging port on the Whyte is better and the rubber cap is certainly better than some Bosch Gen 4 hinged flaps but even so I intend making a cover for my E180 RS before winter sets in.

The rubber sleeve on the fixed portion of the dropper post works well to keep dust out of the seat tube if you put a layer of grease underneath it....obvious clean and refresh as required

 

[Mr President]

On both my Levo and my wife's Cube Access I have protected the charging ports with neoprene covers secured using hd velcro. The position of the charging port on the Whyte is better and the rubber cap is certainly better than some Bosch Gen 4 hinged flaps but even so I intend making a cover for my E180 RS before winter sets in.

Could you post a pic of the neoprene cover? or maybe once you have made the one for the Whyte?
I agree with the Hodge that it is a small complaint, but on a 5K+ bit of kit it doesn't seem too much to ask and Whyte do push the UKability. However, the bike has so far been great and perfect for my needs. I am a happy customer, but you can't improve if nobody comments. Hopefully Whyte look at these forums.

 

[Jamze]

More than that rubber thingy ..I find the other rubber thingy which is supposed to cover the dropper post to be completely useless...they must have produced too many for the T130 ( it doesn't work too well on that bike either) and then "gifted" it on to the ebikes ..but hell its a small complaint when the rest of the bike is so good ?

Never had a problem, had that seat post seal on all my Whytes. Seems to do an OK job of stopping crud getting into the frame. Not sure what there is to go wrong ?

On the rubber charger connector cover, I have noticed you can think it's on but it isn't. Needs to be pushed right down so it seals properly and stays put.

 

[MrSpoon]

Never had a problem, had that seat post seal on all my Whytes. Seems to do an OK job of stopping crud getting into the frame. Not sure what there is to go wrong ?

On the rubber charger connector cover, I have noticed you can think it's on but it isn't. Needs to be pushed right down so it seals properly and stays put.

I've only done a few rides on my e160 and I've experienced it. It just comes loose and rotates around. Crud and muck gathered around that point on mine, so I've just cleaned it out after every ride (all 3 of them!)

 

[Mikerb]

Could you post a pic of the neoprene cover? or maybe once you have made the one for the Whyte?
I agree with the Hodge that it is a small complaint, but on a 5K+ bit of kit it doesn't seem too much to ask and Whyte do push the UKability. However, the bike has so far been great and perfect for my needs. I am a happy customer, but you can't improve if nobody comments. Hopefully Whyte look at these forums.

See a thread started by me called PPE....it shows how I covered the charge port on my wife's Cube Access. I did something very similar on my levo. A straightforward square would do the job on the Whyte. The benefit of using neoprene is that it is flexible so it can be stretched to fit and therefore apply downward pressure on the cap as well as provide protection. It is easy to remove and wash as well. The velcro is heavy duty and self adhesive. It sticks well to both plastic and the frame provided the surface where you want to apply it is degreased with something like rubbing alcohol ( Isopropanol). It will not stick that successfully to the neoprene so I use a contact adhesive rather than rely on the onboard adhesive. The cover on my Levo has been on there for about 9 months now and has successfully kept the charge port clear of dust, mud and water.

 

[Mikerb]

First proto for a cover for the Whyte. It's ok but I could have made it a bit smaller.

 

[The Hodge]

So you start with one of your 'ol ladys bra's ..whats the next step ??

 

[Mikerb]

So you start with one of your 'ol ladys bra's ..whats the next step ??

Neoprene bra??? Maybe where you come from but not around here!! ( as far as I know!). But it shows your pre-occupation

 

[Mikerb]

Neoprene bra??? Maybe where you come from but not around here!! ( as far as I know!). But it shows your pre-occupation

I have been using a cheap pair of Halfords overshoes to make neoprene charging port protectors for my Levo and my wife's Cube Access. Both of those are flat whereas the raised shaped of this one is a bit more of challenge. I used the shaped toe section of the overshoe for this one. It has sealed around the charge port really well but I wanted it to also apply some pressure on the charging port "door" by being a bit smaller than this first attempt. I will probably try cutting this one down and see how that fits. The sexual innuendo is amusing about a piece of neoprene but with zero electrical problems on any of my bikes I am happy to have the last laugh!

 

[Rossy75]

Sorry to hijack the thread but I’m looking to pull the trigger on a Whyte E160s, my reservation is the size. According to the Whyte chart I’m bang on the L-XL size at 6’2” with a 34” inside leg. Would you guys recommend the Large or go for the XL. Thanks Rossy

 

[MrSpoon]

Sorry to hijack the thread but I’m looking to pull the trigger on a Whyte E160s, my reservation is the size. According to the Whyte chart I’m bang on the L-XL size at 6’2” with a 34” inside leg. Would you guys recommend the Large or go for the XL. Thanks Rossy

Honest answer is to try both; but I'm sure you'd be fine on a Large. I'm a shade under 6' and ride a large and it feels big but comfortable for me.

 

[Mr President]

Try both if you can.
I was at the size chart top end of M at 5ft 9in and 32 in inner leg. I test rode M and it felt fine. Sat on L in the car park and felt very comfortable. Shop recommended a M with a slightly longer stem - they said M would have more of a fun feel.
I test rode the L and saw no down side for my type of riding. I prefer stability over 'fun', but was still able off manual off drops and tight switch backs actually felt a bit easier etc... I don't do jumps!
I went for the L and have been very happy. However, I am at the absolute limit of stand-over clearance and even had to reduce the dropper travel by 1cm.
If you aren't able to ride both then I would ask if you value fun or stability more? The answer should guide you to the preferred size. If I actually could jump, I'd have gone for M, but since I am an old man who values his bones more I went L.
I also happened to talk to host of a popular youtube Ebike show who has a Whyte in his stable. He said I had done the right thing in sizing up. The mate who was with me when I rode both said I 'looked better' on the L - which I took to mean being 'in it' more than 'on it'.
From my experience both will work for you. You just get slightly different things from the ride.

 

[Rossy75]

Try both if you can.
I was at the size chart top end of M at 5ft 9in and 32 in inner leg. I test rode M and it felt fine. Sat on L in the car park and felt very comfortable. Shop recommended a M with a slightly longer stem - they said M would have more of a fun feel.
I test rode the L and saw no down side for my type of riding. I prefer stability over 'fun', but was still able off manual off drops and tight switch backs actually felt a bit easier etc... I don't do jumps!
I went for the L and have been very happy. However, I am at the absolute limit of stand-over clearance and even had to reduce the dropper travel by 1cm.
If you aren't able to ride both then I would ask if you value fun or stability more? The answer should guide you to the preferred size. If I actually could jump, I'd have gone for M, but since I am an old man who values his bones more I went L.
I also happened to talk to host of a popular youtube Ebike show who has a Whyte in his stable. He said I had done the right thing in sizing up. The mate who was with me when I rode both said I 'looked better' on the L - which I took to mean being 'in it' more than 'on it'.
From my experience both will work for you. You just get slightly different things from the ride.

Thanks for your constructive comment, unfortunately I cannot test ride either as stock is so difficult to get hold off. My local BS has a MED but this gives me no help. As I too am getting on in years I will opt for stability over flick-ability, I suspect both will be fun rides and I did not want to be on the limit of a Large size as you felt with the Med. Thanks and time to melt some plastic ?

 

[Mr President]

Thanks for your constructive comment, unfortunately I cannot test ride either as stock is so difficult to get hold off. My local BS has a MED but this gives me no help. As I too am getting on in years I will opt for stability over flick-ability, I suspect both will be fun rides and I did not want to be on the limit of a Large size as you felt with the Med. Thanks and time to melt some plastic ?

let us know how you get on.

 

[Gmt]

Sorry to hijack the thread but I’m looking to pull the trigger on a Whyte E160s, my reservation is the size. According to the Whyte chart I’m bang on the L-XL size at 6’2” with a 34” inside leg. Would you guys recommend the Large or go for the XL. Thanks Rossy

I have a large 160rs with the dropper post about 1inch above the collar. I am 5ft 11 in and find the size perfect so you may need an xl

 

[Gmt]

I have a large 160rs with the dropper post about 1inch above the collar. I am 5ft 11 in and find the size perfect so you may need an xl

I am new to emtb and have Shimano clip less pedals . Do most riders prefer flats. I experienced a nasty fall recently and the bike came down heavy on me. Since then I have slacked the cleats off which seems better but it knocked confidence a bit.

 

[PhilBaker]

Final newbie post on the early experience of EMTB and the Whyte E160 S:
Man the E160 is a leviathan. Weighing in at 25Kg you really feel it when manhandling and transporting. I don't notice the weight when riding, but loading, washing, gating, maintaining it is a lump. I use tow bar mounted racks which are perfect if they are long enough for the huge wheelbase, although it takes some working out where to clamp the frame and you definitely need a back-up strap. If you want to use a roof rack you'd need to be the incredible Hulk on a bad day. Same for putting in the boot of the car without dismantling.
I saw in another thread someone complaining that ECO mode on the Bosch was doing nothing. I can say that without ECO mode as a minimum you are going nowhere on the E160, so it must do something. I'd say ECO makes it a sprightly acoustic bike. I have an extremely fit riding buddy who eschews any assistance as the Devil's work and on a fair climb I spin next to him in Turbo. It has been good to discover that assistance rewards spinning as that has always been my pedalling style.
On the 625 wh battery capacity; I came close to the limit after 45km of technical riding including 1250m ascent. I'd say in those conditions and with my fitness level and weight (95Kg in my very heavy pants), 50km distance and 1500m ascent would seem to be the max range. Others report longer range but they are either on easier terrain or are lighter and fitter than myself. I am happy with that in any case and now very glad I didn't go for a bike with a smaller battery. I still need to make sure that I am close to home/car well before running out of juice, because as stated above you are going nowhere sans motor.
I can't compare Ebike performance with others, as I haven't ridden anything else really. The Bosch on Whyte works great for me - hard to imagine it could be better, but I am sure there are other opinions out there.
Zero reliability problems in the first 80 miles of heavy riding. Going into Ace in the coming days for the initial check over.
As alluded to in a previous post - the frame is very limited for mounting of a water bottle. I ordered a Leyzyne side mounting cage and a Wiggle Prime 500ml bottle which fits perfectly in the Large. Also a small Lezyne tool holder for days when I am using a back back for the water.
I knew that chain lubrication was a big deal for Ebikes. Normally I like nothing better than cleaning and lubing my bikes, but it is a big pain with the Whyte and probably most Ebikes. The chain doesn't move when you pedal backwards! The Whyte also does not fit in my current workstand which is a big pain. I am currently looking at my options. Open to suggestions.
One of my big worries when switching to an Ebike was fitness dropping. I am already challenged on that side of things despite riding 3 times a week. I have so far kept the acoustic bikes going for gravel and road, but the Ebike is addictive and I do fear my discipline will lapse. You do get a workout of sorts with an Ebike and could easily make it much more of a challenge, but the truth is that the assistance makes me lazy. I was tired at the end of the 45km, but in a very different way to acoustic. More isometric workout than aerobic. Maybe no bad thing, but I will have to mix it up I think.
I am enjoying EMTB and loving the E160. I fully expect my limited skills to improve by being able to session technical sections. I especially enjoyed riding in Forest of Dean last week and being able to assuage my curiosity about where trails lead or checking out a new section without any pain. I no longer have to wonder where that path leads and when someone says - you should go over there and check the work they've done on that section - I do exactly that. No hesitation.
The E160 is suiting my riding. I have not sacrificed any technical ability for the increase in weight. The planted geometry is also feeding me with confidence. Going to start playing with the suspension set-up in the coming weeks, but only for fun. I have no immediate need to change anything.
So far, so very good.

With regards to "Normally I like nothing better than cleaning and lubing my bikes, but it is a big pain with the Whyte and probably most Ebikes. The chain doesn't move when you pedal backwards!", Rob's trick of wedging a stick in the chainring and back-peddling until the crank arm rubs up against it is a winner. You can then just peddle backwards and lube your chain ?

 

[Mr President]

With regards to "Normally I like nothing better than cleaning and lubing my bikes, but it is a big pain with the Whyte and probably most Ebikes. The chain doesn't move when you pedal backwards!", Rob's trick of wedging a stick in the chainring and back-peddling until the crank arm rubs up against it is a winner. You can then just peddle backwards and lube your chain ?

Ah that's a neat trick . I will look into it.
In the meantime I have built myself MOABS - mother of all bike stands - maintenance is now very easy.

 

[Mr President]

I am new to emtb and have Shimano clip less pedals . Do most riders prefer flats. I experienced a nasty fall recently and the bike came down heavy on me. Since then I have slacked the cleats off which seems better but it knocked confidence a bit.

I use both depending on the bike and terrain. on my E160s I prefer flats. You do need proper flat shoes when riding them.

 

[Mteam]

Flats or clips is just down to personal preference. I would say if you're new to mountain biking you might be better off using flats, but there no wrong or right about it.

I use flats on my mountain bikes, clips on the road bike.

I tried clips on the mountain bike a few years ago, I gave them a proper decent 6 month period, but I've never had so many big crashes as when I was using clips.

Clips clearly work great on a mountain bike, all the properly fast people I have known on a mountain bike have been on clips, but they're not for me.

Edited to add :if my mountain biking were mainly shallow gradient smoothish paths then I'd be on clips, but it not, so flat pedals it is.

 

[Mikerb]

I am new to emtb and have Shimano clip less pedals . Do most riders prefer flats. I experienced a nasty fall recently and the bike came down heavy on me. Since then I have slacked the cleats off which seems better but it knocked confidence a bit.

I have never seen the sense in using cleats on an emtb. Their main benefit is pedalling efficiency which is hardly an issue for most mountain biking except perhaps competitive XC.

 

[Jamze]

I'm sticking with my SPDs. Used them for 30-odd years and (touch wood) can jetisson the bike if I come off. Save yourself not the bike ?

Above the motor cutoff I can really push it without the worry of losing a pedal.

One issue I've found is on my other bikes I'm always unclipping one foot, ready to dab or hang a leg out. With the motor, especially in EMTB mode if you put a pedal stroke in with only one foot clipped in the bike spins out underneath you. I've come off a couple of times like this ??‍

 

[Mr President]

last of my posts on this thread.
330 miles on with the E160 S. Still really enjoying it.
I have taken my acoustic bikes out the odd time to keep my hand in and work on fitness. Can't say I enjoyed it much. EBikes have ruined me!
Only part replaced so far on the Whyte are the rear brake pads. The fact that I wore out the rears first does suggest poor braking technique. The Guide RE caliper pistons didn't want to recess completely so the new pads are rubbing slightly. Luckily its an EBike.
I added a token to the Zebb fork (total of 3) and dropped the air pressure to 80psi. Also added a spacer to the rear shock (total 3), but maintained the same air pressure. The adjustment has improved support at both ends. The air pressure drop in the fork has also made it more supple. I rode Cwmcarn a few days apart either side of the change. The second ride was more enjoyable and more smooth. I also noticed less hand and arm fatigue the second time.
The Whyte has proved a capable and enjoyable performer. It handles well, but the there is a price to pay for the low BB height in terms of pedal strikes and even a couple of graunches on the BB shell itself. I will add some protection in that area.
I do struggle with the weight when not riding. Just handling the bike onto racks, workstands etc....That was the only pleasure of the odd return to acoustic riding - just picking the bike up.
Still can't believe I spent 5K on a bike, but no regrets and a lot of smiles to date.

 

[doomie]

@Mr President thanks for your feedback. Just looking at pulling a trigger on this bike, I've noticed issues mounting this on Thule bike racks. I normally mount my current mtb between the stanchion of the shock and the tube. Can I ask for a small favour? Any chance you can measure the distance between the shock and the frame and a potential width where the clamp could go as per below:

Cheers.

 

[Mr President]

@Mr President thanks for your feedback. Just looking at pulling a trigger on this bike, I've noticed issues mounting this on Thule bike racks. I normally mount my current mtb between the stanchion of the shock and the tube. Can I ask for a small favour? Any chance you can measure the distance between the shock and the frame and a potential width where the clamp could go as per below:

View attachment 65723
Cheers.

Hi Doomie
will check that tomorrow for you. I also mount this bike on a Thule from time to time. I clamp onto the brace between the seat tube and the top tube. Works fine. Just find the Thule a bit heavy to handle if I'm on my own and only carrying one bike, so I bought this single bike carrier for those occasions.