Shimano EP801 and Bosch CX Race - drivetrain killers?

I think the Bosch Performance CX Race has been doing okay, I haven’t seen a huge rush of people reporting bent cogs and broken chains. But I suspect that’s because this limited-edition motor has only been sold on expensive bikes with top-of-the line drivetrains. It seems the Sram Transmission for instance will handle the motor power.

But what about the Shimano EP801? This motor can be found on bikes running 12-speed Shimano Deore, Sram SX and such. With the 4.3.0 motor update, the Shimano EP801 can have lots of motor overrun. This is done by setting the “Assist Carryover” to “Long”. The result is overrun comparable to the Bosch CX Race.


Riding with maximum overrun and assistance​

There are rules for how long the motor overrun can last, and these two motors are very likely right at the limit. That’s why I’m calling them out.

Riding undulating forest trails, there is a lot of variation in speed. We’re suddenly surprised by a corner and have to brake hard. Or we’re going around a tree just to find a very steep incline. In situations like these, it’s easy finding oneself in the wrong gear. We stop pedaling, but the motor is powering on. So, do we wait for the motor to deactivate before shifting? It’s the same when accelerating hard, do we stop pedaling and wait before upshifting and continuing to increase the pace?

Of course we don’t wait! In some situations that would leave us standing still in too high of a gear. We shift under load. Sure, we can ease off the pedals, but there could still be several hundred watts going through the chain. Holding back the rear wheel with the brake could help, but I’d rather not brake when accelerating and I’d prefer not coming to a stop. What definitely helps is reducing the assistance. Riding Eco mode will make your drivetrain last longer.

The Assist Carryover setting.


Will the drivetrain handle it?​

We have been testing the new EP801 motor settings on a brand-new Merida eOne-Sixty 675 with the Deore Linkglide drivetrain. And I’ve been very happy with the shifting. I’ve managed to suppress my mechanical sympathy and just shifting whenever. This 10-speed drivetrain seems a great fit for riding Boost mode with maximum overrun. But …

Okay, I’m riding a demo bike, and I’ve got no idea how it’s been treated before I got it. Perhaps the chainring had been smashed into rocks? Regardless. I managed to snap the chain! I tore an outer plate off the pin.

We'd expect the 10 speed Shimano Deore Linkglide would handle the Shimano overrun. There is a possibility the chain on the demo bike had suffered previous damages.


After having fixed the chain, we kept riding and shifting under load. The drivetrain worked fine and still does. But it was a reminder; how hard are these motors pushing the drivetrain? How will the cheaper 12-speed drivetrains cope? Or how about the older 10 and 11-speed systems that aren’t designed to shift under load?

I really like the long Assist Carryover, but will it be too much for an older drivetrain? The "middle" setting could be kinder and there should be little problems when riding the default "low" setting. ANd as mentioned, stepping down the assistance from Boost mode will help.
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After 20 years of pedaling myself I'm waiting on delivery of my first ebike, so I've had some time to ponder what my new life will be like. I'm curious about how people generally view and use overrun. I can certainly see the advantages of the motor taking over for my legs when they stop, but I usually stop pedaling when I need to stop pedaling, having the motor continue to push when you don't want it to seems unwanted. I can assume with ebikes there's logical different pedaling techniques in certain situations, like braking during a switchback but with this one I can't wrap my head around the advantage of a long overrun.
 
After 20 years of pedaling myself I'm waiting on delivery of my first ebike, so I've had some time to ponder what my new life will be like. I'm curious about how people generally view and use overrun. I can certainly see the advantages of the motor taking over for my legs when they stop, but I usually stop pedaling when I need to stop pedaling, having the motor continue to push when you don't want it to seems unwanted. I can assume with ebikes there's logical different pedaling techniques in certain situations, like braking during a switchback but with this one I can't wrap my head around the advantage of a long overrun.
If you use turbo power in narrow switchbacks, things might get a little spicy and you'll rely on the brakes more in places you never would on a non-assisted bike. Aside from that I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just start with Eco mode and work your way up gradually and it will be a pretty easy adjustment.
 
I snap off the derailuer's if applying power in a high gear, sometimes chains], [110nm torque] , i just avoid the top gear and ride low to middle gears, thats enought to beat $15000 bikes:D
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Jos käytät turbovoimaa kapeissa takavaihteissa, asiat voivat muuttua hieman mausteisiksi ja luotat jarruihin enemmän paikoissa, joissa et koskaan tekisi ilman avusteista pyörää. Sen lisäksi en olisi siitä kovinkaan huolissani. Aloita vain Eco-tilasta ja siirry ylöspäin vähitellen, niin se on melko helppo säätää.
Ketju vauriot voit poistaa ,ei suuremmalle takarattaalle vaihtoa milloinkaan ylä mäessä.Vääntö on tosi suuri ketjulle joka nousee sivuttain isommalle kuorman ollessa päällä.Ihmiset moittivat ketjujen laatua,se yleensä on käyttäjän virhe.
 
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Ketju vauriot voit poistaa ,ei suuremmalle takarattaalle vaihtoa milloinkaan ylä mäessä.Vääntö on tosi suuri ketjulle joka nousee sivuttain isommalle kuorman ollessa päällä.Ihmiset moittivat ketjujen laatua,se yleensä on käyttäjän virhe.
Yes , but in racing situations you are banging gears like crazy , no time to think ahead with gear changes, but obviously need to costing a lot of time , thats where the derailuer system shows the weaknesses on ebikes .
 
If they're made well, less breakdown over time. Plus, both have been around since the late 1800s, just now material sciences allow for strong, lightweight alloys. I have a 3 spd Nexus IGH on my analog beach cruiser since 2010. Other than an oil change, bomb proof. Gearboxes too are known for their reliability and super low maintenance...I'm hoping Sram decides to make either or both. I have AXS, currently. Improvement sure, but a rear mech is always the Achilles's heel for a mtb, especially the higher Nm emtb.
 
If you use turbo power in narrow switchbacks, things might get a little spicy and you'll rely on the brakes more in places you never would on a non-assisted bike. Aside from that I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just start with Eco mode and work your way up gradually and it will be a pretty easy adjustment.
Agree. OP don’t overthink think it, yet. Wait till you are actually on yours and are learning its particular riding traits. Imho. There is a learning curve esp. for certain situations. Besides, you should be able to adjust multiple parameters.
 
I think some of this potential drivetrain carnage due to the emtb motor may be a little overstated. I'm a dirt motorcycle guy who still rides aggressively. So when I built my first emtb I used an older Santa Cruz Bullit with a Bafang BBSHD mid-drive motor. Those motors are capable of 1500 watts max and 1000 watts routinely, and that in a cadence power delivery rather than torque sensing. I rode the crap out of that bike for 3 years aggressively with a dual crown fork and coil shock. Drivetrain wear was only marginally faster than my years of pedal-only bikes.

Since January I've been riding a Trek Rail 7 with the software update to 85nm, and I installed a VOLspeed tuner. I ride exclusively in Turbo. The bike has over 800 miles on it now with a complete CUES 9-speed drivetrain with the least expensive Linkglide chain, the LG500. I just replaced the chain which was still in satisfactory wear range, but cassette and chainring life are extended greatly by not waiting until the chain is full toast...and the chain is cheap.

I do not baby this bike, though I do maintain it religiously. From years working at a bike shop here's what I've seen as far as drivetrain wear and life. A lot of riders even on just pedal-only bikes are really hamfisted on how they shift, when they shift, and how they maintain their adjustments and service on their drivetrains. I just don't think drivetrains are that fragile with an emtb. There are often other factors that come into play with early drivetrain issues and failures that aren't necessarily related to emtb applications.
 
9-speed drivetrain . . . with the least expensive Linkglide chain
arTNC - what do you think of CUES with XTR or Wipperman 9 speed chain for the best setup?
 
arTNC - what do you think of CUES with XTR or Wipperman 9 speed chain for the best setup?
My take is that one of the strengths of CUES and other systems that use the Linkglide chain is the Linkglide design. Bear with me a moment. Linkglide is not a fast shifting system, but it is a solid shifting and staying-in-cog system. Everything's a compromise, but a solid shift on an emtb is very important because of the additional power that's usually at play.

Also I contend that high speed shifts are not as important on an emtb, or at least a full power emtb. Why? The momentum and slight overrun you get with a full power emtb allows you to back off more when you shift. So I think it's more important to have a solid shift and a chain/cog system that stays in place under the rigors of an emtb. This is also why I think emtbs don't have to be drivetrain killers unless the rider is using a somewhat more fragile drivetrain or the rider is totally hamfisted.

We all know our pedal-only mtbs are quite critical to have fast shifting drivetrains because our human power needs all the help it can get when climbing and shifting or maintaining momentum in technical terrain. My experience so far after nearly 4 years of emtb use is that they maintain momentum better overall...no real surprise...but the little bit of motor overrun allows you let off the crank pressure during a shift. You might think that a little motor overrun would be as harsh or harsher than the rider cranking on the pedals while shifting, but surprisingly I have not found that to be the case.

So, with full power emtbs...and maybe even the lesser powered models...a robust, solid shifting, solid retaining drivetrain is more important than lighter, lightning fast drivetrains. This has been my take and experience so far. I do not think the bike industry has fully comprehended and applied drivetrain design more appropriately suited to emtbs.
 
So, what is the strongest 10 speed chain known to man? (not cheapest, longest wearing or best value etc)
 
So, what is the strongest 10 speed chain known to man? (not cheapest, longest wearing or best value etc)
That's a very good question, and I'm not convinced that there is or has been a totally reliable and unbiased test procedure to absolutely confirm it. Shimano claims that Linkglide is 3 times the strength and durability of previous setups...their systems, everyone's systems, what? I'm a fan of Linkglide, but it's because of the shifting integrity, ability for the chain to stay in place regardless of terrain and suspension action, and affordability. Durability and strength will only be determined over time in the real world.
 
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