I very rarely wash my bike, other than a quick hose off to remove the big bits, I then use GT85 and a cloth, leave it for a day or so, then apply fresh motor oil. I've been through the religious clean/dry/lub routine and it made little difference and took more time. What's more my wheel, suspension and freewheel bearings are lasting longer with less washing.
Drivetrain cleaning
- Thread starter RJUK
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #32
Sure, but that assumes you lube all of it. It's easy to miss a spot and you're only supposed to lube the rollers and joints anyway - so the outsides of the chain could still corrode as you don't lube that part.
- Thread starter
- #33
Yeah, I didn't wash the rest of the bike, either. Just knocked the lumpy mud off. I could see crap all over the drivetrain though, so just cleaned that. Logically it should last longer if it doesn't have dust and grit from the trail getting crunched up in the gears, though in fairness as a kid I used to massively over lube my chain with wet lube and remember the jockey wheels being covered in thick black sludge, grass and dirt but I never changed any of my drivetrain and it worked fine for years.
I also cut the chain really short to eliminate chain slap and still had no issues.
Agreed, wire wool works or you could wax your chain, or simply use your split link and take your chain off for a more thorough clean and lube, everyone has their own cleaning process so whatever works for you.
Here's my tried and very simple metod that has worked well for many years
After each ride wipe as much dirt off as I can with a rag then put bike into top
gear and apply a drop of rocknroll blue to each link then spin the cranks through 30 revolutions to get all the lube in. Leave it to soak through until just prior to next ride and then vigorously wipe all excess lube off. Go ride
After each ride wipe as much dirt off as I can with a rag then put bike into top
gear and apply a drop of rocknroll blue to each link then spin the cranks through 30 revolutions to get all the lube in. Leave it to soak through until just prior to next ride and then vigorously wipe all excess lube off. Go ride
Downhillr
Active member
Quite a few of suggestion here (wiping chain) really don't do much for the chain life since the primary wear point is in the pins where chain links spin.
Removing chain and soaking is effective but tedious, you are best using a chain cleaning tool like oark’s or Muc-Off’s which both soak, brush and rinse the gunk from your chain with their drive line cleaning solutions (I prefer Silca’s cleaning solution) air dry and re-lube. BTW, one of the bike mags ran a test on a bunch of chain lubes and Silca’s Secret Lube finished high on the list so I switched to that from White Lightening and find my chain quieter and the lube lasting longer as well
kauaibobby
Member
I use Pedros chain pig. works great, cleans out a lot of dirt. I use just water or hot water or soapy water or degreaser in it. It get a lot of dirt out of chain . easy to use. rinse dry and lube chain
- Thread starter
- #39
Are we still talking about drivetrains?!
Here is a different perspective!!
I use GX chains.....never seen any sign of rust. After most rides I wipe and brush the chain in situ...then lube, the wipe off all excess. Occasionally I slip the chain off the chainwheel and cassette and let it dangle over a pot....use a degreaser then water in a squirt bottle, wipe and leave for a while to dry , then lube. Typically a chain last 600 miles to 0.5. .....c £23 to replace. So measuring wear on the pins/rollers to 0.5 % is easy enough......what is not measured is the amount of sideways flex .......and that affects shifting. An X01 may last twice as long as far a "stretch" wear is concerned but costs more than twice as much ...and probably suffers the same unmeasured linkage wear.
I am more concerned about cassette wear since replacement for that costs over £200 ! .......and what wears the cassette? Dirt on the cassette and of course the chain but also wear on the chain. After most rides I remove the rear wheel and clean the cassette using degreaser and then water from a hosepipe.
I use GX chains.....never seen any sign of rust. After most rides I wipe and brush the chain in situ...then lube, the wipe off all excess. Occasionally I slip the chain off the chainwheel and cassette and let it dangle over a pot....use a degreaser then water in a squirt bottle, wipe and leave for a while to dry , then lube. Typically a chain last 600 miles to 0.5. .....c £23 to replace. So measuring wear on the pins/rollers to 0.5 % is easy enough......what is not measured is the amount of sideways flex .......and that affects shifting. An X01 may last twice as long as far a "stretch" wear is concerned but costs more than twice as much ...and probably suffers the same unmeasured linkage wear.
I am more concerned about cassette wear since replacement for that costs over £200 ! .......and what wears the cassette? Dirt on the cassette and of course the chain but also wear on the chain. After most rides I remove the rear wheel and clean the cassette using degreaser and then water from a hosepipe.
NorthernDust
New Member
Rock n Roll is my go to after trying all sorts over the years
Used to like Squirt in the Summer if it was dry but I just stick to RnR Extreme all year now.
Last edited:
NiftyNic
New Member
+1 on the RnR Extreme/blue. A top notch chain lube and cleaner!
gmoss
New Member
Have you ever cleaned your chain and then moved it up and down, side to side and it still feels crunchy? My concern and method is to get the grit from out of the chain, inside the rollers, and keep the outside from rusting.
From years of riding mtn bikes and racing dirt bikes offroad, the simple solution was wash and WD, let dry. But, those chains have O rings. So, now, I use a chain cleaning tool, Park for me, and a strong degreaser. Then I use a standard nozle on the hose to blast the gunk out of the chain at the cassette as it spins. I have a hot and cold spigot in my garage so I can use hot water for this. Then, I use an air compressor with the little gun style nozzle that is the size of the chain and blow it dry in the same way I spray the hose to rinse. Once dry, drip a drop on each link, and pedal the chain thru a rag with a little WD on it to keep the outside protected.
Bike chains don't get near as gunky as moto, but moto doesn't have to shift efficiently. This has worked for my for 25 years of riding, and takes me about 15 min after a ride. I usually have to clean every 4th or 5th ride.
BTW, WD works fine as a lube in a pinch.
From years of riding mtn bikes and racing dirt bikes offroad, the simple solution was wash and WD, let dry. But, those chains have O rings. So, now, I use a chain cleaning tool, Park for me, and a strong degreaser. Then I use a standard nozle on the hose to blast the gunk out of the chain at the cassette as it spins. I have a hot and cold spigot in my garage so I can use hot water for this. Then, I use an air compressor with the little gun style nozzle that is the size of the chain and blow it dry in the same way I spray the hose to rinse. Once dry, drip a drop on each link, and pedal the chain thru a rag with a little WD on it to keep the outside protected.
Bike chains don't get near as gunky as moto, but moto doesn't have to shift efficiently. This has worked for my for 25 years of riding, and takes me about 15 min after a ride. I usually have to clean every 4th or 5th ride.
BTW, WD works fine as a lube in a pinch.
Last edited:
+3 for RnR Extreme.
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